Showing posts with label patternmaking. Show all posts
Showing posts with label patternmaking. Show all posts

Tuesday, December 31, 2013

Plus size pattern part 2

The most popular post on my blog has been my list of plus size patterns, so in that vein, I decided to do a part two. Please note some links are my affiliate links, which help me fund fashion school and buy fabric. Thanks!

Burda

Burda has a bunch of gorgeous patterns, many of them in plus sizes. I love that they show plus size models in actual garments and not just line drawings. There are patterns for coats, dresses, tops, bottoms, separates and suits. Many styles are very fashion forward and based on European trends. *Please note that Burda patterns do NOT include seam allowance so you will have to trace the patterns onto paper and then add (usually 5/8" for garments) your desired seam allowance). But this is actually easier for fitting corrections to be made.

Kwik Sew

Kwik Sew has a limited number of plus size patterns available, but from the patterns of theirs I've sewn they are drafted well. They really excel in stretch knit garments. If you're bust is 45" or less and hip 47" or less you can fit into the XL of their straight sized patterns, which opens up a lot more choices. Or if you're open to going the extra step to grade patterns up of course. But their sizing seems to be much more true to life than the other big name brands in my experience. They also have some excellent sewing books that include patterns. I have the Kwik Sew Lingerie Book, and Swim and Action Wear book. The Easy Sewing book is a great primer on sewing knits and stretch fabrics especially.

Jalie

Jalie is a Canadian pattern company that gets great reviews at Pattern Review. I've yet to sew with them, but it is a goal for the new year! They have a lot of dancewear, yoga, workout type clothing. So think knits:) They have a very generous size range from size US 4-22 on the same envelope. There's a whole section on their website for underwear patterns:)


Have any other favorite plus size pattern designers or companies? I'd love to hear. Leave a comment below. Next I think I'll start compiling lingerie patterns, not necessarily plus size because that would be a very short list. What do you think?

Plus size lingerie patterns



One of my most popular posts is my list of plus size patterns sewing here. I'm going to be doing a follow up part 2 post soon. But I came across a great resource that I had to share. I couldn't wait for a full post.

Barbara Deckert Designs has some great plus size lingerie designs. She has written a book Sewing for Plus Sizes: Creating Clothes That Fit & Flatter (Amazon affiliate link). Barbara specializes in patternmaking and fitting for plus sizes. She has several lingerie patterns on Craftsy that are sized 1X-6X and include a full slip or cami, 2 styles of half slips, and a panty girdle. Images below are not mine, I believe the are Ms. Deckert's but they come via Craftsy's site. If you click on any of the links of pictures you will go directly to her pattern page on Craftsy to see all of her offerings (Craftsy affiliate link). I'm super excited about her individual cup sized cami/full slip pattern. Let me know if you sew it up first!

http://www.shareasale.com/r.cfm?u=730192&b=253536&m=29190&afftrack=&urllink=www%2Ecraftsy%2Ecom%2Fuser%2F815361%2Fpattern%2Dstore
Goddess of Glam Cami Source

http://www.shareasale.com/r.cfm?u=730192&b=253536&m=29190&afftrack=&urllink=www%2Ecraftsy%2Ecom%2Fuser%2F815361%2Fpattern%2Dstore
Hippy Slippy Half Slip Source


Tuesday, March 12, 2013

Plus size patterns


I'm starting a resource list of useful links for plus size patterns. These can be hard to find and I hope to add to it as I discover more. If you are a plus size pattern designer, I'd love to feature you here or if you know of some great ones, leave me a comment or send me an email.

Want to get the fit right?

Online Sewing Class

Barbara Deckert's Online Sewing Class is a great way to get started with learning fitting techniques for the curvy body. Crafty's video format gives you 24/7 video access to the course work, plus you can ask questions to the instructor and other students in a asynchronous chat format aka you don't have to be online at the same time. You can post pics of problems or finished garments in the community as well. By using the affiliate link above you help fund my little fabric stash.


Pattern Review

A great place to check out how well patterns work out in real life fabric (and on real life bodies) is to check out Pattern Review. Lots of helpful sewers here! Tons of information, it's easy to get into information overload. If I'm interested in a pattern while I'm out shopping I pull up this site on my phone before I make my decision.

Fashion Patterns

I love supporting independent designers, especially if they happen to be local! Fashion Patterns is based in Washington, state that is:) Connie offers plus size sewing pattern in sizes 1-6X, she has a nice selection of patterns including dresses, tops, lingerie and pants. Check out the site here http://www.fashionpatterns.com/ She also offers books and videos on sewing, patternmaking, etc and straight sized patterns.

Sis Boom/The Scientific Seamstress

Not just for plus sizes, but most if not all of her women's patterns are sized to include plus sizes. I absolutely love Carla's attention to detail and the thoroughness of all her patterns. As a fellow scientist myself I love the way she has put together her "lab manuals" for the patterns. She includes step by step directions and clear pictures of each step in her ebook patterns. The great thing is you can purchase and download immediately and get to work. Purchasing through this link helps keep this blog going (*affiliate disclaimer, I heart You Can Make This website and I personally spend much more on this site than I make through affiliate sales, but hey every bit helps when you're a start up)


Butterick

Butterick, although part of the big 3, has some pretty nice plus size patterns, especially if you're looking for career or casual wear.  Most patterns are offered multisize 18W-24W. http://butterick.mccall.com/plus-size-pages-156.php


Style Arc

Style Arc is an Australian based pattern company. I've heard great things about this company (fit-wise and instruction wise) and they have very stylish patterns! Their plus size offering goes up to size 30. Very fashion forward, I love the gallery and the photos of celebrities along side with their patterns.

Got any favorites? Leave a comment below!

Monday, March 11, 2013

Corsetry Part 2

I'm finally finished with my first corset! Truly a labor of love. This custom pattern required at least 4 separate fittings and many adjustments along the way. I learned a lot about my body, pattern making, grading, fitting, and handling power tools. As Dr. Whaley, Provost of the New York Fashion Academy says "making a corset is part sewing and part metalwork." I also learned you need a lot of hand strength to make a corset...from cutting coutil to setting the grommets to cutting the boning oh and hand sewing through 6 layers of coutil while trying to keep dotted material nice and even, I realized I need to work on my hand strength. Anyone have any exercises?

 My corset has a gentle sweetheart neckline and a v-shaped lower silhouette. Red and black tapestry patterned coutil make up the outer part of this lined corset. The lining is red polka dots on a black back ground. The corset has a 7 closure (extra long) busk in the front and laces in the back with metal tipped polyester lacing. I believe there are 22 grommets on each side. The edges of the corset are bound with the polka dot coutil. The over the bust bones are spiral and the rest are medium weight steel bones. If you want any other details just ask!

Without further ado, here's my beautiful corset. Want to see the progression? Check out the in progress pics in part 1. Professional pictures coming soon, so stayed tuned.


Front of corset

Back of corset